Belgrade
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Belgrade is the capital of the Republic of Serbia and is, as such, the country's largest city with a population of about 1.7 million people. It lies on the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers. The city has a long history, dating back to the 4th century BC, when the area was settled by Celtic tribes. Later on, it became the Roman city of Singidunum, and relics of that era can still be seen in the city, particularly at Kalemegdan Fortress. During the Middle Ages the town became a Serbian stronghold until the Ottoman invasion. In 1878, when Serbia got its independence, Belgrade became the capital of the new country. After the First World War, Belgrade became the seat of Kingdom of Serbs, Croats and Slovenes (in 1929, the country changed name to Kingdom of Yugoslavia) until its collapse, and it saw violence again in 1999 with NATO's bombing campaign. This often violent history and outside influence has colored much of Belgrade's evolution, which is evident in its culture and architecture. Often caught between the hammer and anvil of clashing empires, the city has taken on a unique character, reminiscent of both Austrian and Turkish influences, with a unique set of Communist elements thrown in as Yugoslavia was expelled from the Eastern Bloc in 1948. Yet, the city has its own spirit, and in it can be found some not only unique features, but also a healthy joie de vivre in its café culture, nightlife and often Mediterranean flavor in its view of life. Whilst there isn't much by way of ethnic or cultural diversity in Belgrade, in terms of different migrant populations – compared to other European cities – there are minority communities (largely Roma and Chinese), as well as people from other former Yugoslav republics, such as Bosnia, Croatia and Macedonia. There is also a small expat community. Cultural events from round the world, however, are starting to be increasingly common, particularly in the spring and summer months, thanks in no small part to both local arts and culture organizations, as well as foreign embassies/cultural centers. These attract a good deal of local attention, and will help in raising the city's profile as a cultural hotspot. Belgrade is an energetic city re-discovering its tourism potential. One great new magazine, White City is a must read for anyone who plans on visiting. They call themselves an urban magazine but it's a great lifestyle magazine written in English for both locals and foreigners. It's available at any place that sells magazines in Belgrade.
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Attractions
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Belgrade city core is not too big. Everything between Kalemegdan, Knez Mihajlova street and Skadarska street is best viewed by foot. Other than that, it is recommended to use other means of transportation. Notethat many of Belgrade's museums are closed on Monday. It may be wise to check before making a visit. [see][see] The massive Kalemegdan and Belgrade Fortress complex*Knez Mihailova Street(Serbian Cyrillic: Кнез Михаилова улица). Main pedestrian street in Belgrade. Crowded during day and night. Mostly shopping and numerous cafes.
- Kalemegdan - Belgrade Fortress. Once important military fortification, it now serves as central park of Belgrade. Accessible from the end of the Knez Mihailova street, it offers beautiful views, especially during sunset. Most part of it is a park and the fortress walls, with several cafes, tennis and basketball courts, museums and observatory. Don't miss to take a look at the confluence of Sava and Danube rivers, and statue of Pobednik (Winner), one of the symbols of Belgrade.
[see][see] The Republic Square and National theater*Republic Square(Main square). Main meeting point in the city (also called "by the horse"), right next to statue of Mihailo Obrenovic (riding a horse), National theater, National museum and Knez Mihailova street. Right place to arrange a meeting. [see][see] Restaurant patios in Skadarlija*Skadarlija (Skadarska street). Pedestrian street filled with restaurants and cafes, most in the spirit of old Belgrade. Live bands playing old Belgrade music could be heard here in the evenings. The street is paved in cobblestone so ladies are advised to avoid wearing high heels, unless highly experienced. Blank-walled buildings on the south side have been painted with impressive 'trompe-l'oeil' paintings to add to the atmosphere.
- Srpskih vladara street, connecting Belgrade Fortress ,Knez Mihailova street and Republic Square with Slavija Square and The Temple of Saint Sava, dominating the view as you walk towards it. Notice Terazije Fountain, Hotel Moskva(Former Palace of Russia),The Old Royal Palace, following the New Palace, and theater Jugoslovensko Dramsko Pozorište, as you wander around.
[see][see] The Old Palace*The Old Royal Palace (Serbian Cyrillic: Стари Двор), at Nikola Pasic Sqaure, built in 1881, it was residence of Serbian kings, now used as Town Hall.
- The White Palace (Бели Двор) -(Serbian Cyrillic: Бели двор; English: White Court or White Palace) is a mansion located in Belgrade, Serbia. The mansion is part of the Royal Compound, a real estate of royal residences and parklands located in Dedinje, an exclusive area of Belgrade
- The New Palace(Serbian Cyrillic: Нови Двор /lat: Novi Dvor)-The New Palace is located next to Тhe Old Royal Palace, the square Andrićev venac(Андрићев венац) no. 1st. It was built between 1911 and 1922, as the residence of King Petar I Karađorđević.Today is the official seat of the President of the Republic of Serbia.
[see][see] National Assembly of Serbia*The National Assembly of Serbia (Serbian Cyrillic: Народна Скупштина Србије), located across the Old Royal Palace, at Nikola Pasic Sqaure.
- Gardosh (Serbian Cyrillic: Гардош/Latin: Gardoš) is an urban neighborhood of Belgrade. It is located in Belgrade's municipality of Zemun.Gardos the hill, located on the right side of the river Danube, is a historical and authentic cultural environment, with narrow streets and houses and churches authentic. At the top, there is a tower "Sibinjanin Janko" (or Millennium Tower) - height of 36m, open in 1896, with a gallery and a beautiful view of the river, and Belgrade. On the hill and near by the river is a large number of restaurants with local food, seafood restaurants, floating(splav) restaurants, ship-restaurant.
- Belgrade Zoo, Mali Kalemegdan 8. Summer: Daily: 8:00AM–8:30PM, Winter: Daily: 8AM – 5PM. , located inside the Belgrade Fortress
Churches and monasteries
- The Temple of Saint Sava(Serbian Cyrillic: Храм Светог Саве)[see]. Serbian Largest Orthodox Temple, built from 1935 in several phses. Interior decoration is not yet finished, however visitors have access to the north aisle which is complete and in use. From the quality of the marble- and plaster-work already in place, it will be stupendous when it is finished. It is located near Slavija square, easily accessed from Bulevar Oslobodjenja.
- Belgrade Cathedral (Serbian Cyrillic: Саборна црква) or St. Michael's Cathedral, located near Belgrade Fortress(Kalemegdan) at Kneza Sime Markovica 3. Build from 1837 to 1840, with richly decorated interior. Across the church the building of Patriarchate is located.
- St. Mark's Church(Serbian Cyrillic: Црква Св. Марка) built from 1931 to 1940 located in the Tašmajdan park in Belgrade, near the Parliament of Serbia. There is a small Russian Orthodox church right next to it.
- Church Ružica(Црква Ружица) and Church Sveta Petka(Црква Св. Петке) are located on Kalemegdan fortress, near observatory (easy to miss, ask for directions). Ružica is first mentioned at 15th century, and destroyed in early 18th century. After that it is rebuild in the present location, and it is the oldest church in Belgrade. It is again destroyed in WWI by Central Powers, and then renewed in 1925. At that time the church got its guards in person of bronze soldiers, and the unusual chandeliers made out of bullet shells, swords and bayonets.
- Church of St. Alexander Nevsky(Serbian Cyrillic:Црква Св. Александра Невског), Cara Dušana 63.-Dorćol(near Skadarlija).The history dates back to the time the Serbian-Turkish war (1876), when they are in Serbia under the command General Mikhail Chernyayev (Михаил Черњајев), Russian volunteers arrived. Then they erected a tent near the church dedicated to St-. Aeksandu Nevsky.The old church was built in 1877, but later followed the turbulent history. The church has significant relics, frescoes, and in the interior of the plaque, Serbian warriors, the Russian czar Nicholas the Second, King Alexander I Karadjordjevic etc.
- Niklajevska crkva(Serbian Cyrillic:НИколајевска Црква),built 1745.Located at the foot of the hill known Gardos(Гардош) ,near the Danube, in the municipality of Zemun, Belgrade.
- Church of the Holy Virgin(Serbian Cyrillic:Црква Покрова Пресвете Богородице),Kajmakčalanska 55- Zvezdara, Belgrade.It was built in 1933, simple in Serbian-Byzantine style, richly adorned with frescoes, mosaics, has a rich collection of relics.It is located between Buevara King Alexander, and Žiča street, near the "Red Cross Square"(Црвени Крст).
- Monastery Rakovica(Serbian Cyrillic:Манастир Раковица)- dedicated to Sv. Archangel Michael and Gabriel.Monastery went through a turbulent historyRakovica Monastery is located 11 km from the city center, on a circular route, which the Rakovička river turns to the Avala.Monastery has important relics, and there are tombs of famous personalities(Vasa čarapić, Patriarch Dimitrije), and until recently Serbian Patriarch Pavle.
- Presentation of the Virgin Monastery(Serbian Cyrillic:Манастир Ваведења Пресвете Богородице),street Vasilija Gaćeša No. 8.-Senjak (Dedinje hill).It is located near the center, the Topcidersko hill, surrounded by woods.The church was built in 1935.This beautiful church ("Monastery of the Presentation") was built in the Serbian-Byzantine style, richly painted frescoes, and a rich treasure.
Museums and galleries
- The National Museum(Serbian Cyrillic: Народни Музеј), closed due to reconstruction. Located at Republic square. Founded in 1844, has more than 400,000 items including Italian Art Collection (230 works) including Titian, Caravaggio, Tintoretto, Paolo Veronese, Canaletto, Tiepollo, Carpacio... French Art Collection (250 paintings) includes Renoir (55 works including 22 paintings), Monet, Degas, Signac, Lautrec, Matisse, Goughen, Utrillo, Pissaro, Corot... Dutch and Flemish Art Collection (120 works) include Vincent van Gogh, Rubens, Rembrandt, Van Goyen, Breughel... Japanase Art Collection has 82 works which include Kunisada, Toyokuni, Hirosige... Cubist Art Collection includes Picasso, Cezanne, Delaunay, Arhipenko, Mondrian... Yugoslav (Serbian) Art Collection includes Paja Jovanovic, Uros Predic, Lubarda... Other Art Collections (German, Austrian, Russian...) include Durer, Gustav Klimt, Kandinsky, Sisley, Marc Chagall, Modigliani, Kassat...
- Historical Museum of Serbia(Serbian Cyrillic: Историјски Музеј Србије),Square Nikole Pasica 11 (Tel. +381 (0)11 3398 018; 3398 335).Working hours:Every day except Mondays.The museum is located next to the National Assembly of Serbia. Museum has a rich collection of materials related to the Serbian nation and Serbia from ancient times to the present
- Etnographic museum(Serbian Cyrillic: Етнографски музеј), Studentski trg 13, +381 11 3281 888, [see], Tu–Sa: 10AM–5PM, Su: 9AM–2PM. Permanent exhibition of Serbian costumes, tools, culture and everyday life in past centuries. Temporary exhibitions covering related topics.
- Museum of the Serbian Orthodox Church(Serbian Cyrillic: Музеј Српске Православне Цркве)- Located across from the Belgrade Cathedral(Саборна црква), The Residence of Princess Ljubica, near Knez Mihailova Street / entrance from the street Kralja Petra I br. 5th.(Opening hours: weekdays from 8-16C, 09-12C on Saturdays, Sundays 11-13C). Across the street is, the Orthodox Academy of Art and Conservation (frescoes, mosaics, and icon painting)
- Gallery of Frescoes(Serbian Cyrillic:Галерија Фресака), Cara Uroša 20, Beograd(center).(Monday closed. Booking group visits, tel. (+381) 11.30.60.52)). The gallery was founded in 1953. , as a special institution for the collection, study and exhibit of the Serbian medieval art. It is now part of the National Museum and contains a rich collection of murals and medieval sculptures.
- Nikola Tesla Museum, Krunska 51, ☎ +381 (0) 11 24 33 886 (info@tesla-museum.org, fax: +381 (0) 11 24 36 408), [see]. Tu–F: 10AM–6PM, Sa–Su: 10AM–1PM. Museum dedicated to the man whom Serbs revere. Nikola Tesla (Никола Тесла) made significant contributions to the development of electric engineering, pioneering alternative current (making long-distance high-energy transfers possible), radio (making base work for today's mobile communications) and AC motors (widely used today, e.g. blenders, vacuum cleaners and elevators), among other numerous inventions. Half of this small museum is dedicated to Tesla's personal effects, while the other half contains models of his inventions. There are English-speaking guides who are students from the Engineering Department of the University of Belgrade who can help you understand the sometimes-complicated science.
- The Residence of Princess Ljubica (Konak kneginje Ljubice)-(Serbian Cyrillic:Конак кнегиње Љубице),Knez Sima Markovic No. 8 in Belgrade(center).The residence is now managed by the Museum of Belgrade and is used to display the museum material and painting exhibitions. The permanent exhibition at the Residence consists of original furniture, made in Oriental-Balkan style and other styles of the time (Classicism, Biedermeier, neo-baroque).
- Ivo Andric Museum, Andrićev Venac 8. Memorial Museum of Ivo Andric, is dedicated to our writer, Nobel laureate.Closed Mondays
- Tito's Mausoleum and the Museum of the History of Yugoslavia(Serbian Cyrillic:Музеј Историје Југославије) Take trolleybus # 40 or 41 from Studentski Trg or from Kneza Miloša Street in the direction of Dedinje and ask for "Kuća cveća" (House of flowers). Entry is 200 dinars and includes admission to the "House of Flowers," with the grave of Josep Broz Tito; the Museum of the History of Yugoslavia, with changing exhibits, and the "Old Museum," with artifacts from the former Yugoslavia and around the world given to Tito in his years as president. hours="Tu-Su: 10AM-4PM"
- The Military Museum (Serbian Cyrillic: Војни Музеј), inside the Belgrade Fortress.Museum has around 30.000 objects in 12 collections and very impressive photo collection with over 100.000 photographs, etc.
- Museum of Roma culture, Ruzveltova street 41-43, [see]. Tu-Su: 11AM-4PM. The museum is situated in a small storage room in a public building in downtown Belgrade. Its walls are covered with photographs and documents in the Roma language. There are temporal exhibitions, different programs and events.
- Aeronautical Museum (Serbian Cyrillic: Музеј Ваздухопловства)- Belgrade. The facility is located adjacent to Nikola Tesla Airport,Belgrade.The main collection is housed in an architecturally noteworthy geodesic-based glass building, with additional aircraft displayed on the surrounding grounds. The museum owns over 200 aircraft that have been operated by the Serbian and Yugoslav Air Forces, Aeronautical clubs and Avio-companies, from gliders to helicopters to jet fighters.There are a number of rare aircraft and other aviation equipment. The museum also displays relics of US and NATO aircraft "donated" during the 1990s Balkans conflicts, including wreckage from a US F-117 Nighthawk...
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- Ada Ciganlija, a river island on Sava River with an artificial lake in the center of the city. The lake has an 8 km long gravel beach, which is visited by thousands of bathers during the summer. This is a great place for sports and picnics (barbecue is allowed in the allotted space) . It also contains a lot of cafes and restaurants,river rafts (bars-restaurants), some of which are opened whole year round. In summer, it is swamped with people wanting to cool down in the water. Beaches in Ada Ciganlija, with restaurants, cafes on the beach, as well as umbrellas,beds and water sports, reminiscent of many sea beaches, and are the right place for swimming, recreation and enjoyment. You may rent bikes or inline skates at several points near the entry to the island. Lanes for pedestrians and bikers are separated. You have over-the-water bungee jumping facility, as well as water skiing. There are terrains for football, basketball, beach volley, golf and tennis. If you are coming from the direction of New Belgrade or Zemun, consider using small boats from Block 70a edge, New Belgrade, which can take you over the river for around €1. During summer season they go every 15 minutes or less, and offer bike transportation as well. There are also many regular bus services from the city center and other districts to Ada Ciganlija. Additional facilities:
- Adventure Park is open during summer season (usually from beginning of May until the end of September) +381-64/8210-218, +381-63/1679-787. Site (only in Serbian) [see]. Price for one go through the park is RSD 800 (~€8).
- It is also possible to drive a Segway on small flat track, near cafe Plaža, +381-69/734-929, Site (only in Serbian) [see]. During the promotional period, 15 minute drive is RSD 500 (~€5).
- Try open-air ice skating (during winter), or ski and snowboard simulator (all year round)
- Public Observatory (placed at Kalemegdan fortress). There are four panoramic telescopes installed for daily observations of the city's panorama. This is the unique place in Belgrade for panoramic observations. [see]
- National Theatre. Watch opera, ballet and plays, the main hall is simply amazing. Decorated with gold and artworks.
- Zemun quay, if you have spare time to spend riding a bike, inline skates or walking next to Danube river. For a break just hop on one of the raft bars or restaurants (most of them near the former hotel Jugslavija, and a little further next Gardos).
- Strahinjića Bana street (Serbian Cyrillic:Страхињића Бана улица)-кnown as the Silicon Valley(Силиконска Долина) is located in downtown Belgrade, at the end of Skadarska Street (popularly Skadarlija) laterally, and extends to the Kalemegdan fortress and the zoo. Along the streets of a large number of popular bars, restaurants, cafes, gardens (with a slightly higher prices)
- Go bowling, available at:
- Koloseum, Dobanovačka 56, Zemun, +381-65/3888-888, [see]
- Usce shopping mall
- Delta city shopping mall
- Test yourself in ice skating, available during winter months at:
- Sport Center Tašmajdan, Čarlija Čaplina 39, +381-11/2766-667, Timetable [see], RSD 200–300 (~€ 2-3).
- Pingvin (Penguin), Jurija Gagarina 78, +381-11/2178-183, Timetable: [see], RSD 200–250 (~€ 2-2.5).
- Mali Pingvin (Little Penguin), Deligradska 27
- Open-air ice skating at square Trg Nikole Pašića available from 20 December 2010 to 20 January 2010, free of charge
- The great War Island (Veliko ratno ostrvo), a river island at the confluence of the Sava and Danube rivers, for picnics and bird spotting.
- Avala, small mountain (511 m) near Belgrade with 204m Avala Tower at the top. Viewing platform is accessible via a lift with great views of Belgrade and parts of Vojvodina and Šumadija. Entrance fee is around 0.5€ per person.At the top of the Monument to the Unknown Soldier, and the motel and a few restaurants. During the descent, turn right, there is a mountain lodge "Čarapića Brest"(Чарапића Брест)-resting, with rooms and good restaurant.
- Visit a splav (literally: raft) – a barge restaurant located along the Sava and Danube rivers. There are two kinds of "splav". Some are restaurants ( There you can dine and eat with the extra feature of being on the river and enjoying the view) and most are nightclubs. Each "splav" is a nightclub to itself. You can literally club hop all night long. There is no cover charge to get into any of them. Some ultra popular ones may require that you have an invitation or be on the guest list, but if you tell them that you are a foreigner and that you didn't know they'll usually let you in. Women are not required to be on a "guest list". The music played on the barges is highly varied. Everything from Serbian folk music, pop, dance to latest Euro is played. Another really cool thing about the "splav" is that many of them feature live bands. It is really unlike anything you've ever seen before.
- If you have time visit the Belgrade Arena, New Belgrade. It is the second largest arena in Europe and the largest in the Balkans. You will definitely be impressed by the architecture. The 2005 European Basketball Championships were held there.In the Belgrade Arena has often sporting events and music events, with famous sports teams, world music artists and groups (check, maybe there is something interesting for you).
Cinemas
Movies in Serbia are subtitled, not dubbed. Best movie theaters are:
- Kolosej at Usce shopping mall, Bulevar Mihajla Pupina, +381-11/2854-495, 3D projections available
- STER City Cinemas, at Delta City shopping mall, Jurija Gagarina 16, +381-11/2203-400,
- Roda Intermezzo Cineplex, Požeška 83a, +381-11/2545-260
- Tuckwood cineplex, Kneza Miloša 7a, +381-11/3236-517, in the city center, a bit old, and sometimes too loud.
If you prefer theaters in the city core, check also:
- Dom sindikata, Trg Nikole Pašića 5, +381-11/3234-849
- Akademija 28, Nemanjina 28, +381-11/3616-020
Events
- BITEF, Belgrade International Theater Festival, 13–24 September 2011 [see]
- BEMUS, Belgrade Music Festival, 15–26 October 2011 [see]
- Belgrade Jazz Festival, around October 2011 [see]
- Belgrade Tango Festival, around November 2011 [see]
- Rakija fest, 10–11 December 2011, festival of traditional Serbian distilled alcoholic beverage [see]
- Nova godina, 31 December 2011 [see]
- Street of Open Heart, mini carnival held on 1 January 2012 starting at noon, on streets Makedonska and Svetogorska
- Guitar Art Festival, 8–13 February 2012 [see]
- International Wine Fair, around February 2012, Belgrade Fair
- Belgrade Tango Encuentro, around April 2012 [see]
- Festival of new and improvised music – Ring Ring, around May 2012 [see]
- Summertime Jazz Festival, around July 2012
- BELEF, Belgrade summer festival, around July–August 2012 [see]
- Belgrade Beer Festival, around August 2012 [see]
- Open Heart Street,every January 1 in Svetogorska Street
Football
While Begrade isn't home to any of the traditional European football giants, the local derby between Partizan Belgrade[see] and Red Star Belgrade[see] (won both European and International Cup in 1991), also known as the Eternal Derby (Вечити дерби), is considered to be one of the most intensive sport events. Even if you do not support either club, but you enjoy cheering, watching one of the matches between the two sides is still recommended to experience the atmosphere. Due to the intensity of the rivalry, it is not recommended to wear either team's colors outside the stadium during matchdays between the two sides.
Things you must do before you leave
- Spend an afternoon at the Kalemegdan Park and enjoy the sunset at one of the fortress lookouts.
- Eat burek and yogurt for breakfast.
- Spend an evening on the terrace in one of the restaurants in Zemun next to Danube.
- Ride a bicycle, inline skates, run, walk, swim, water ski, bungee jump or just sit and enjoy at Ada Ciganlija lake (during summer).
- Spend part of the day, enjoying some of the rafts / boats restaurants-cafes on the Sava River (around Ada Ciganlija, Sava coast of New Belgrade). On the River Danube on the coast of New Belgrade(Novi Beograd), along the Zemun - Gardos, or go to the mouth of the river Sava and the Danube below Belgrade Fortress, or across the coast.
- Listen to the old Belgrade music in one of the restaurants in Skadarska street.
- Ride the tram number 2 a full circle.
- Attend a concert in the Belgrade Arena, if someone you like is visiting. The crowds here are really amazing, so the atmosphere is great.
- Spend an hour sipping coffee or some incarnation thereof at one of Belgrade's cafés.
- Bargain at one of the green markets in the morning.
- Wander the Kosancicev Venac neighborhood preferably on a summer Sunday for a taste of authentic Belgrade.
- Have a rakija at one of the old style buffets.
- Have a meal at on of the old state owned cafés like Beogradsko Prolece or Kafana "?".
- Befriend a Belgrader.
Shopping
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Maps and transportation
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Getting to Belgrade
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By plane
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Belgrade is serviced by Belgrade Nikola Tesla Airport (IATA: BEG), about 12 kilometers west of the city center, and is the home base of Jat Airways – Serbia's flag carrier airline – which flies to nearly 40 destinations worldwide. Other major airlines fly to Belgrade, such as Air France, Swiss and Lufthansa. Discount and no-frills carriers offer modest number of flights. Wizz Air has direct flights from London, Eindhoven, Memmingen, Gothenburg, Malmö, Charleroi, Rome, Stockholm and Dortmund to Belgrade. Germanwings does have a number of less expensive flights to cities across Europe and Norwegian Air is another low cost airline operating to Belgrade. Flyniki also offers low cost flight from and to Vienna. From 15 April 2010 SpanAir started direct flights from Barcelona and Madrid to Belgrade. From 5 May 2010 airBaltic started direct flights from Riga to Belgrade. SkyWorks flies directly from Bern. Other low cost companies such as Ryanair and EasyJet, however, have yet to make their entrance in the Serbian market, which makes the cost of flying to and from the city a bit higher than other destinations. For travellers from Asia/Middle East, the low cost airline FlyDubai offers cheap direct connections from India, Sri Lanka and other destinations to Belgrade via Dubai. For a full list of carriers see Serbia.
Airport transfer
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- If you prefer taxi, first of all, read General precautions below. It's good to know that downtown is some 18 km away from the airport. Also, there is no luggage fee, so you absolutely don't have to pay for your luggage. You have several choices (ordered from best to worst):
- Order a taxi by phone. Follow the operators instructions where will the driver pick you up, which is usually: go left upstairs, get out of the building, go left until you pass the departures section some 20m. You will probably need to say your first name to the operator, since there are usually several passengers ordering cabs. The cost should be around RSD 1300 (~€13) to the city center, RSD 1500 (~€15) if you take a cab after 23:00.
- Buy a voucher from the dispatch officers in yellow vests before you go through customs control (pay attention, they are easy to miss). The vouchers cost RSD 1500 (~€15) to most parts of the city center, Zemun and Novi Beograd, but for distant suburb areas it could cost up to RSD 7500 (~€75). There are reports of problems with this system, such as drivers claiming the voucher is only good for one passenger and that you must pay more for additional passengers, which, of course, is not true.
- Go left upstairs to the departure section and catch one of the taxis dropping off passengers. They will be happy for the return ride.
- If you take taxi service being offered by drivers in the airport terminal (arrivals) you have most chances to meed dishonest driver. That location has a long history of drivers ripping off the passengers. They might try to avoid using their meters, and charge many times the normal fare.
- Bus line #72 runs twice an hour (quarter past and quarter to each hour) to Zeleni Venac in the city centre, and costs 120 dinars (~€1.20) from the driver or 80 dinars from the shop inside the departure hall that sells food and newspapers. The trip is around 45 minutes.
- A more comfortable city bus option is the A1 minibus, going from the airport to Slavija Square in the city center, stopping at Fontana (Novi Beograd) and the Main Train Station. The buses are comfortable and air-conditioned. The fare is RSD 250 (~€2.50), which is paid on-board; be sure to tell the driver what your destination is before departure. Timetables can be downloaded here (serbian) and here (serbian and english.
By train
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The Central Train station is located, not surprisingly, in the city center. From the station to Republic Square is 1 km (uphill) - about 15 minutes walk. Almost all national and international trains stop here, but a few trains stop at Novi Beograd/New Belgrade station, cca 5 km west from the city centre.
- Budapest: 7½h, two daytime and one overnight train Beograd. There is a special offer Budapest Special/Beograd Special, €15 for one-way and €26 for return ticket. You can buy this ticket at MÁV e-shop (at least 7 days in advance, only in Hungarian see Hungary for English explanation) or at Budapest station. Couchette reservation is €9.40 for 6-berth couchette, but there are reservation-free seats even on the night train. The night train uses to be overcrowded in summer (2005).
- Vienna: 10½h, a through couchette car attached to night train Beograd. Ticket price begins at €39 in 6-berth couchette (non-refundable, bound to specified train and day). You can book it only at Austrian railway stations.
- Prague: 15h, EC Avala. Direct one-way ticket is expensive, it's better to combine cheaper Prague-Budapest and Budapest-Beograd e-tickets. For return journey a CityStar offer suits to you.
- Ljubljana: 9h, two daytime and one overnight train. Discounted Beograd Special ticket, non-refundable and bound to specified train and day, costs €25.
- Zagreb: 6h, the same trains as from Ljubjana plus one daytime train at morning. Ticket costs about €30, every additional passenger has 50% discount. An additional Railplus discount is possible.
- Sarajevo: 8½h, a daytime train departing at 11:35, not shown in international timetables. Ticket costs €17.
- Podgorica and Bar: 10h / 11h one daytime and one overnight train (two in summer season). Due to chronic undermaintenance in 1990s there are many sections with slow speed, though the track is currently being refurbished. However the train is still the fastest and cheapest transport mode between Montenegro and Serbia. Price is about €20 plus €3 compulsory seat reservation or €6 couchette reservation.
- Skopje: 9h, a daytime train Olympus and an overnight train Hellas Express.
- Sofia: 9h, one daytime and one overnight train. Ticket cost about €20 and €10 for berth reservation. Seating coaches are fairly comfortable though. It is cheaper to buy a ticket until the last station on the Serbian Railways - Dimitrovgrad (€10) and then pay just €2 to the Bulgarian controller once past the border for the remaining of the track to Sofia.
- Istanbul: 24h, one (morning departure) direct coach and one night train connecting through Sofia. Cancelled due to floods in Bulgaria as of March 2012.
- Bucharest: 12h, an overnight train Bucuresti.
- Kiev (via Chop and Lviv): 36 hours, direct sleeping car.
- Moscow (via Kiev and Konotop): ~48 hours, daily, direct sleeping car.
There's no train connection from Greece, as since Jan 2011 Greek Railways suspended all international trains. The former trains from Greece now depart from Skopje in Macedonia.
By bus
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Belgrade's central bus station is next-door to the central train station, in Karađorđeva street. Whilst coach service to national and international destinations is frequent, departure times are usually reliable, but arrival times may be not. Timetables aren't clearly posted; the timetables that are there are in Serbian only, so ask for information inside the terminal.
Ticket reservations and purchases are made in the terminal building.
When buying a bus ticket, you will also receive a token to enter the platform area, for national travel. For international travel, you will be given a paper stub to present at the platform gate.
Be aware that most coach drivers will charge you a fee for baggage handling in the cargo compartment, though this is not a uniform practice with international travel. Also be aware that drivers rarely speak English or any other foreign language. Inform yourself about your trip prior to departure as much as you can; if in doubt, ask a fellow passenger for assistance.
Coach travel in Serbia is a hit-and-miss experience; whilst there is a huge number of companies to chose from, not all of them have clean, modern coach fleets, particularly for travel within Serbia or to neighbouring Montenegro. Coaches are more often clean and modern when embarking on trips to Croatia and Western Europe.
For international trips to the rest of Europe, Lasta is the Eurolines carrier.
For long trips, drivers usually stop for 15 minutes breaks roughly every two hours, though this isn't by any means guaranteed. Pack appropriately with food and bottled water. When disembarking on breaks in the trip, make sure to either secure your belongings, or take them with you.
When you get off the bus, you'll probably be offered a taxi ride or baggage-carrying by some men. Don't accept any offers, no matter how they may insist. They are all illegal and their only intention is to rip you off.
By car
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Coming north from Subotica and Novi Sad, the E-75 highway is recommended, as well as driving to Belgrade from the south. There is also a major road called Ibarska magistrala (Ibar highway, M-22), which provides approach from south-west (direction of Montenegro, for example). From the west, use the E-70 highway (from Zagreb, Ljubljana etc.). Major roads can be used coming east and north-east from Vršac and Zrenjanin.
Highways have toll stations, which are moderately priced. As of summer 2007, there is major roadwork on the E-75 highway north, so expect occasional delays. Serbia's only highways are parts of E-70 and E-75 roads and the highway passes right through Belgrade without a bypass, causing large unavoidable traffic jams on the Gazela bridge and at the Mostar junction. {C A Belgrade trolleybus
By boat
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Belgrade lies where the rivers Sava and the Danube meet. Passenger ships enable you to reach every place along the Danube in a very convenient and meditative manner with many fascinating attractions along it, but it is a quite slow and rather expensive way of travelling.
By bicycle
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Belgrade is located on European bicycle route Eurovelo 6 which connects Atlantic Ocean and Black Sea.
Getting around Belgrade
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Belgrade has an extensive public transport network, covering almost all areas of the old city, Novi Beograd, Zemun and other out-lying areas. The network itself consists of a large fleet of more than 1,000 buses, trolleybuses and trams but sometimes even this is not enough, and public transport in Belgrade is usually crowded during rush hour.
City transport is divided into two tariff zones (map). Tickets are 60 RSD for one zone and 95 RSD for both. Starting 1 February 2012, new tickets (Bus Plus) are introduced. There are several types of tickets:
- ticket bought from the driver, which costs 100 RSD
- paper ticket that is bought at kiosks; it costs 40 RSD and is empty when bought, so you have to put some money on it; paper tickets last for 3 months and can only be refilled with up to 600 RSD; this is probably the best option for tourists
- plastic ticket that looks like a credit card; it is valid for 3 years, costs 250 RSD and is also empty when bought
- there is a 4th option (personal ticket) which can only be bought at certain spots in town, and it is a monthly ticket for one person, valid for one year
All tickets (except those bought from the driver) must be validated on machines inside the vehicle. Tickets are also valid for BG:Voz, but notfor BeoVoz and minibuses. Transport authorities routinely check tickets for validation — particularly at peak hours on major lines — and an infraction can land you with an uncomfortable fine, which sets you back about €30. [see] Belgrade public transportGSP (ГСП in Serbian Cyrillic) is a public transportation company and there are maps of bus, trolleybus and tram lines on its website. Free maps of entire public transport can be found in tourist offices and here.
By bus
There are over 120 urban and over 300 suburban bus lines. There are also several seasonal lines, including Ada1–Ada5, the five lines which can take you to Ada Ciganlija, and one seasonal, weekend-only line (400) which goes to the summit of Mt Avala. As of February 2012, many buses are less than five years old. The area around Zeleni Venac is a major bus hub in the city center, with many lines going to and from Novi Beograd and Zemun stopping there.
Daily transport starts at 4:00 and ends at 00:00. Night transportation is operated only by buses. It is sparse and goes every half-hour to every hour, but there are plans to make all night lines depart every half-hour. It is best to ask where and when to use it since some of the night lines are modified versions of the daily ones. Here is a map of night lines.
Take note that few regular bus lines (such as 24 or 49) are operated by minibusess, but the tickets for them are the regular ones.
By tram
Trams are mostly old and cramped, with few being restored; some (the green ones) have been donated from the city of Basel, Switzerland, but they are also beyond their serviceable lifespan. In 2011, though, several brand-new Spanish low-floor articulated trams were acquired. There are 12 tram lines in Belgrade, three of which are connected to New Belgrade.
Line 2 is famous in the city with a circular route, running in both directions. The circle is known as krug dvojke (#2's circle) and rings the central city streets.
Line 3 is famous for a beautiful neighborhoods it goes through, particularly Miloš's Konak Park.
By trolleybus
Trolleybus fleet in big majority consist of new Belarusian made Belkommunmash vehicles AKSM-321 and AKSM-333, and they run only in Old Belgrade, connecting the city center to east and south-east. There are eight trolleybus lines.
By minibus
There are nine public minibus lines (E1–E9) [see]. Minibuses are all air-conditioned, smaller and generally quicker than regular city buses. However, tickets are bought only inside a minibus and they are more expensive than ordinary ones. Also, in most stops, there is no indication of minibus line routes. This means that one will have to wait for the minibus to come and read the route written on the minibus itself (or just ask the driver).
As of July 2011, minibus fare is 99 RSD (or 120) and the tickets are sold by the driver.
Here is a map of minibus lines.
Take note that several regular bus lines (such as 24 or 49) are operated by minibuses, but the tickets for them are the regular ones.
By commuter rail
State-owned BeoVoz commuter rail have six lines connecting Belgrade suburbs with the city:
- Stara Pazova – Belgrade Downtown – Pancevo – Vojlovica
- Ripanj – Resnik – Rakovica – Pančevo – Vojlovica
- Stara Pazova – Belgrade Downtown – Resnik – Ripanj
- Zemun – Belgrade Downtown – Valjevo
- Nova Pazova – Belgrade Downtown – Resnik – Mladenovac
- Stara Pazova – Belgrade Downtown – Mala Krsna
However, it is very unreliable, and often late. Use it only if you must, and be patient. Very patient.
There is also one line under control of City of Belgrade, and that one is called BG:Voz (BG:Train). These trains run according to schedule which is every 30 minutes (15 minutes on rush hour). Timetables for both Beovoz and Bg:Voz are available here [see].
By taxi
Taxis are cheap (by European standards) and plentiful, and you can either hail one in the street, or call a taxi company.
General precautions
It is always best if you order taxi by phone since your order will be saved in the operator database. Here is the official info about taxi service in Belgrade.
Whenever you enter a cab, be sure to chose one with a roof sign indicating it's a city-regulated radio taxi (which carry a little blue sign with the city coat of arms and a number on it). Never take a privately owned cab (the ones with the white marker on the top that does not list the name of the company), since you can pay up to four times the normal price. Also, legal taxis must have their license plates ending with TX (for example: BG-1234-TX).
Insist that the trip be metered. The only exception is the case when you take taxi from the Arrivals section on the airport, where it is possible to buy vouchers with fixed prices. As of June 2010, the flag fall for starting a ride is RSD 140 (€1.5), and the rate is RSD 55 per kilometer (1st tariff) or RSD 70 per kilometer (2nd tariff, at night and weekends). Official maximum fares are here. Take note that a normal 'step' on a taximeter is about 3 dinars a time. Tipping taxi drivers is welcomed but not required. You only have to pay the amount displayed on the meter and your luggage is included in price.
Typical rip-off scenario involves a device known as "turbine". By pressing specially installed button (usually on the left of the steering wheel, or next to the clutch pedal) the driver starts the "turbine" and fools the meter to charge much faster then the usual speed. The change in the charging speed is obvious, so dishonest drivers talk and show around a lot, to make their passengers keep an eye off the taxi meter. The best way to prevent the driver from starting the turbine is to keep an eye on the meter at all times.
If you believe that the driver is trying to rip you off, call the operator of that taxi association to check if the price is regular for the specified distance. Afraid of the inspection, they might call back the driver and bring him to reason. Also, ask for a signed bill indicating date, time, start and end destination, price and drivers signature. Write down the number on the blue sign on the vehicle roof, as well as the license plates. Report the incident to city inspection (+381-11/3227-000) and if you are going from or to the airport, report it also to airport inspection (+381-11/2097-373, taxi@beg.aero). If the driver is aggresive towards you, call the police.
By car
As in most of Europe you must keep to the right side of the road. Avoid rush hours (8:30–9:30AM, 4:00–6:00PM). Plan you journey if you are going in to the city core, and expect to have hard time finding free parking place on the streets during Friday and Saturday evenings in the center. Garages might be a better choice.
Keep your low beam headlights turned on, during both day and night. Speed limit on the streets of the city is 50 km/h, near schools even less, on the highway is higher. Police is known to wait at places where you might feel comfortable to drive over the limit, but almost never on highway. Take special care while crossing Branko's bridge, and driving on following streets: Bulevar Mihaila Pupina, Jurija Gagarina, Vladimira Popovića, and other big ones. Keep your seat belts fastened. Other passengers must also do the same, even when sitting on the back seat (if there are seat belts installed).
Allowed level of blood alcohol content (BAC) is 0.03%, which is roughly equal to one drink. If you do go by car to drink, consider going back using taxi or Safe driver service, +381-64/1746-411. They will come to pick you up on the small, folding motorcycle, pack it in your trunk, and drive you back home in your car. Their charge is modest, and slightly higher than one-way ride with the taxi (~5€ for <5 km, ~7€ for <10 km, and ~10€ for >10 km).
Yellow lanes
Many boulevards and some streets have yellow lanes. They are reserved for public transport, i.e. buses and taxis, and you are not allowed to use them. The yellow lanes are marked with a yellow line, and are indicated on traffic signs. Some yellow lanes, though, are active only in certain periods of the day, usually during rush hours.
Parking
There are spaces for parking in the city center. There is a large parking garage with 500 spaces under the old palace in the city center, across from the parliament building.
Also, take into consideration that in the center almost all of the parking spaces in the central streets have zones marked with green, yellow or red paint on the street (yellow zone spaces are actually marked orange, to avoid confusion with other marks). You can only stay for 3, 2 or 1 hours, respectively, in those spots. You can pay using the machine usually found near the parking spots, buy the parking ticket at a kiosk or by cell phone (just text your car's license plate number (for example: BG123456) to numbers 9111 (red zone), 9112 (yellow) or 9113 (green)). Every message you send is valid for one hour and, some 5 minutes before the hour has passed, you get a text message telling you that you can send another SMS if you want to extend your parking for the next hour. Of course, this only applies in yellow and green zones, in which you can park for more than 1 hour. After the time is up, you'll have to re-park or risk paying a fine (around €15). All of this only applies on weekdays, from 7AM to 9PM and from 7AM to 2PM on Saturdays. After that (Sa 2PM – Mo 7AM) parking is free.
There are also several public parking garages and parking lots where you can park for an unlimited amount of time during day. Fees are charged on an hourly basis (price varies, usually around €0.7-0.9/hour). In some non-zoned areas, you also pay for parking depending on the duration of your stay, and this is paid in cash to the parking attendant.
Detailed information can be found on the Parking Service website [see].
Parking violations are dealt with rather swiftly in the city center and with less commitment in the peripheral zones. Failure to pay for parking in a marked spot is handled by parking enforcement officers and can only result in a fine which would be difficult to collect if you're operating a foreign licensed vehicle. On the other hand, illegally parked vehicles are handled by the traffic police. Once spotted, the police are required to wait for 15 minutes for the driver to return. If you do return in time, you will be issued a sanction and a fine (around €50). When the 15 minutes are up, your car will get towed to one of 4 designated lots in the city. You may locate it using an online service http://www.parking-servis.co.rs/en/vehicle_towing/where_is_my_vehicle. Once at the lot, you will be required to present a valid form of ID and the vehicle matriculation papers, pay the mandatory fine and towing expenses (around €90 in total).
By bicycle
Old Belgrade is pretty hilly and the bicycle infrastructure is scarce, so bicycle transport isn't in wide use. However, New Belgrade and Zemun are relatively flat and offer enough space for bikes to be used. Bicycle tracks link Zemun, Dorćol, Ada Ciganlija, New Belgrade and Bežanijska kosa. There is a bike lift on Brankov Bridge operating 365 days and the ride is free of charge. There is also more than 50 bicycle racks around the city.
Riding a bike on the same roads with cars and buses is considered too dangerous, although on smaller streets it can be reasonably safe. Avoid riding on major (multilane) roads. Unfortunately, you are not allowed to bring bikes into public transport vehicles.
Bicycle rentals are available mostly at recreational areas like Ada Ciganlija or Zemun quay. Average price is around 1.5€/hour and 4€/day.
By boat
Small boats connecting Ada Ciganlija to Novi Beograd's Block 70a are the only mode of public transport on rivers. Also, there are several tourist boats which offer day and night cruises along the Sava and Danube.
By night
Night public transport starts at midnight and lasts until 4am and is operated by buses. There are numerous lines [see] that will take youto any part of town [see]. The tickets are bought inside the bus and, as of July 2011, they are 120 RSD for one zone and 170 RSD for both zones. The ticket-seller will ask you where are you going to, so that you buy a proper ticket.
Sometimes it can occur that you ride on a daytime line well after midnight. Take note that night lines have suffix "N" (e.g. 15N) and only in them you have to buy the night ticket. Daytime lines are daytime lines even after midnight.
Practical information and resources
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External resources
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